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I Need Advice About Portable Air Conditioners

Yeshuasdaughter

You know, that one lady we met that one time.
V.I.P Member
At my old place, I had a 20,000 btu window air conditioner unit. It was powerful enough to cool off my entire 1000 square foot house.

Now I live in a place where window units are not allowed (or safe to use). I am looking to buy a portable AC unit. It stands on the floor, and there's a hose that goes out the window. I will put plexiglass in next to the hose.

My question is this: The most powerful portable AC unit is only 14,000 btus. If put in the living room window, will it be powerful enough to cool the entire 941 sq ft apartment, or will I need separate units for the bedrooms as well?

I live in a semi-humid region. My house seems to average 70% humidity, and our summer days are 80-90 degrees on average.

I was looking at this unit in particular. It seemed pretty good, but I know nothing about air conditioners. Will I need to buy extra units for other rooms, or will it do the job for the whole house?

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker...1DLPUWG2/ref=dp_fod_1?pd_rd_i=B01DLPUWG2&th=1

Could you maybe recommend a brand and model that you use, that has served you well?
 
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Is there a way to modify your current window unit so it is not hanging out of the window...?
I envision it sitting on a pedestal just inside an open window (with temporary duct work).
 
Is there a way to modify your current window unit so it is not hanging out of the window...?
I envision it sitting on a pedestal just inside an open window (with temporary duct work).
Unfortunately, it has to be the kind that just has a hose in the window. Plus, there's so much heat and moisture that gets kicked out the back of one of those units. It would kinda have to hang outside, right?
 
It would kinda have to hang outside, right?
Not if you had temporary duct work flaring out from the back of the unit to a nearby window.
(The bottom of the duct would have to angle down slightly.)

Think of an "inny" bellybutton rather than an "outy." ;)
 
But still, can't have it, plus all that water would be pouring out the back. On summer days around here, we have big puddles under the ac. It needs to be a portable unit.

So let's stop talking about window box units all together.
 
The floor units I have a air duct and metal piece that fit into the window. The water is collected in the unit and when it is full you get indicator and unit won't work, until you drain the tank. I use two units. One larger one for living area and smaller for bedroom. I'll post pics tommorrow. Very late atm.
 
Looking at all the websites claiming the best portable air conditioners, most seem to mention the Black & Decker model. However they did so on the premise of a device best used in conjunction with small rooms.

I can't say I know anything about portable a/c either. So I'd be more inclined not to try to read through the lines here and take what is advertised more literally.

One thing I couldn't help but notice though was that the devices' BTU rating seemed to be proportional to the retail cost. In other words, you want more efficient cooling over a larger space than a single room, expect to pay closer around between $600 and $750.

If that is just too far outside your price range, the B&D model might prove to be your best bet, as long as you settle for cooling one room at a time.

It is weird to look back having lived in the Pacific Northwest, at a time when no one would have dreamed of needing any air conditioning. These higher seasonal temps are sure making it tough on y'all.
 
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What I'd honestly suggest to cool a place best-- a 16" table fan, one of those big old metal ones if you can get one cheaply enough. Open the windows at night, and run the fan in the night to pull in cool night air. Then close windows & draw the shades after sunup and cool the place in day time hours with the fan.

It's not going to cool the place as effectively as central air, but it's a lot cheaper and can feel a lot cooler than normal ambient temperatures.
 
What I'd honestly suggest to cool a place best-- a 16" table fan, one of those big old metal ones if you can get one cheaply enough. Open the windows at night, and run the fan in the night to pull in cool night air. Then close windows & draw the shades after sunup and cool the place in day time hours with the fan.

It's not going to cool the place as effectively as central air, but it's a lot cheaper and can feel a lot cooler than normal ambient temperatures.
I have a portable with the hose, but this what I do it works, never use the air conditioner. as long as you get a cross breeze. humidity is worse then temperature, your own body produces humidity an d temperature at night so a fan works great.
 
I'm just wondering, mostly, if anyone knows about BTUs and how much you need to cool a roughly 1000 sq ft apartment.
 
I'm just wondering, mostly, if anyone knows about BTUs and how much you need to cool a roughly 1000 sq ft apartment.

I would say 15 000 and up to 20 000. Depending on the quality of the air conditioner. A good quality brand makes a big difference I think. The one you saw on Amazon is Black & Decker, that's a good brand. They have a hundred years of experience making things. Maybe you can try the 14 000 BTU from Black & Decker and return it if it isn't good enough? I would do that, but I don't know what kind of return policies you guys have over there in the US.
 
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air-conditioner-2.jpg


This is the basic setup of some portables. We have LG brand which may be in the lower end cost-wise. Had them 3 years no problems, but the insert in the window can be a pain to install depending on how your window is set up. Comes with a small bracket and screws to hold the windows in position. May need additional DIY hardware to make window more secure if security is an issue. We end up using duct tape around the window insert, which leaves a hard to remove residue. No biggie if you own the home, but a headache to clean if renting.
 
If you can't fix it with duct tape, you're not using enough duct tape. :) One of the best inventions mankind ever came up with.
At my last house, we were trying to take the residue from duct tape off of our living room window. My father came over with a bottle of "adhesive remover".

Oh my goodness, that was the funnest toy I've ever played with! You spray it on the window, leave it for sixty seconds and the glue turns into sort of a slimy substance, and wipes off easily without much effort. I did have to use a sharp edge to get off some parts, but mostly, it came right off, like melted butter.

I had so much fun with that. It smells really strong though, and I had to keep backing away from the window, because I'd get a headache. That was solved by opening the window.


View attachment 79457

This is the basic setup of some portables. We have LG brand which may be in the lower end cost-wise. Had them 3 years no problems, but the insert in the window can be a pain to install depending on how your window is set up. Comes with a small bracket and screws to hold the windows in position. May need additional DIY hardware to make window more secure if security is an issue. We end up using duct tape around the window insert, which leaves a hard to remove residue. No biggie if you own the home, but a headache to clean if renting.

Thank you so much! I'm going to look at the LG brand now. I've had good experiences with them over the years, with other appliances.

The security thing isn't much of an issue. We live "in a deluxe apartment, in the sky.." (and yes, I just sang that). The maintenance guy has these plexiglass inserts that fit perfectly in the window, and you just put the hose through it. He takes your window screen for the summer, and replaces it with the plexiglass. It's low income housing, but so classy!


1000 square feet
Insulation Condition: Average
Sun Exposure: Average
Cooling Btu Needed: 20,000 BTUs

Cooling Btu Calculator: How Many Btu Cooling Do I Need? - PICKHVAC

OMG thank you! I wonder if two 10,000 btu air conditioners would work? Like one in the living room, and one in the back bedroom. And then the kitchen, den, and middle bedroom would get cooled, as long as doors are opened?

What do you think, handymen of the forums?
 
OMG thank you! I wonder if two 10,000 btu air conditioners would work? Like one in the living room, and one in the back bedroom. And then the kitchen, den, and middle bedroom would get cooled, as long as doors are opened?

What do you think, handymen of the forums?

Yes I think that will work fine. I was thinking about that and I looked around on Amazon for it, there are several around 10 000 BTU available there. Two of those should fix the heat.
 
OMG thank you! I wonder if two 10,000 btu air conditioners would work? Like one in the living room, and one in the back bedroom. And then the kitchen, den, and middle bedroom would get cooled, as long as doors are opened?

I use a 10000 btu in living room and it handles the kitchen and dining room most of the time, to about 72-76 degrees. When it gets to 90 and above for a while it can only keep it at about 80. I have a smaller one in back bedroom (8000 btu) and it has no problem keeping the bedroom at 72 in all conditions (It sounds like we have same climate temp range as you).

They do not in my opinion keep the middle bedroom cool though. We don't use it so I am not sure completely.

I think the main problem is circulation. It might work if you had a small floor fan at the door of the middle bedroom, to bring the lower cooler air into the room. Something like this. You can get them for maybe $40.

e015e89d-067b-4b08-95a5-67e912244eb4_1.2a6305e77e73a9483660d0efd5d1af5b.jpeg
 
Lots of helpful suggestions. Beyond them all perhaps there is one other thing to research. Since you are now armed with some critical figures useful in terms of cooling spaces, consider contacting a representative of your utilities company to see if they can estimate the possible energy costs as well as if they have any programs that can reduce your rates. Not all utility companies are created equal, but I figure it's worth a shot.
 

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