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Whitewater Woman's Equipment Maintenance and Repair

I think Nitro's suggestion of getting the power outlet properly tested should be the first step. If something's wrong there it could affect power supply to the rest of the house and could also be a fire hazard. If there's no issue with the power source then there's something wrong with the appliance.
 
I think Nitro's suggestion of getting the power outlet properly tested should be the first step. If something's wrong there it could affect power supply to the rest of the house and could also be a fire hazard. If there's no issue with the power source then there's something wrong with the appliance.
No, not exactly either.
A circuit has to be loaded in order for it to burn stuff.
 
There's dangerous current in modern computers these days too, 1.2 volts doesn't sound like a lot but 75 amps will kill you.

I remember learning that as little as 0,3 amps is enough to stop a heart. 🤔 As Nitro said, people should contact someone who is experienced with electricity when dealing with electrical problems. It's not worth the risk.
 
I've been working with electronics since I was a child.
I still build some circuitry.
The higher voltage work began when I was around 14.

There was a stage of my life where I played with 50,000 volt low amperage circuits just to see how they responded.

That taught me a lesson about potential in circuits where I got to observe high voltages ground path themselves to a lower voltage positive inputs, exactly the opposite of what you might think.

-----------------------------------

If you don't understand it, find someone who does.
 
Is there any way for @WhitewaterWoman to test the new dryer's mother board or whatever it's called?

Testing individual components on much of any printed circuit board is not for amateurs. Mostly given, how could they interpret the results even with the right devices?

About the most the average person is likely to accomplish is to visually inspect the board to see if there are carbon deposits (burn marks) around or on components like capacitors, which can process a lot of heat. One of the more obvious signs of distress on a circuit board.

Not just a concern of safety, but you don't want to inadvertently cause a short either.
 
Based on the info so far looks like loose wire inside outlet. I lost my stove a year ago due to a surge City of Brampton has lots of black outs as it grows, had to go to small claims court to get my stove replaced. After this had a surge protector installed on my house power. So loose wire or warranty issue too much electronics on new appliances

Incidentally I once worked for a appliance manufacturing company including driers. I suspect they added a lot more electronic controls since then.
 
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I just wanted to find out if there was a simple way to check the dryer line and it appears there is not a simple and safe way.

Thank you to everyone who has responded. I really do appreciate it. I learn more every time.
 
Testing individual components on much of any printed circuit board is not for amateurs. Mostly given, how could they interpret the results even with the right devices?

About the most the average person is likely to accomplish is to visually inspect the board to see if there are carbon deposits (burn marks) around or on components like capacitors, which can process a lot of heat. One of the more obvious signs of distress on a circuit board.
Not just a concern of safety, but you don't want to inadvertently cause a short either.

It occurred to me that messing with the dryer might void the warranty so best not to do that.
 
It occurred to me that messing with the dryer might void the warranty so best not to do that.

Excellent point. One for us all to heed.

I had forgotten that at one point in underwriting products liability we sometimes emphasized that very thing to our independent agents to pass onto their clients (our policyholders). And that was decades ago.

And with any number of products made these days, some manufacturers are taking some real liberties in interpreting what can and cannot void a warranty. Putting consumers at a distinct disadvantage short of becoming plaintiffs in a class action.

In a nutshell, yeah- it's best not to go there as a consumer.
 
When my stove stopped working, they were unable to get replacement board shortage during covid we simply took the manufacturer to small claims court to replace the stove, which they did.
 
Hope it does not come to this, with luck it's only a lose wire in your plug. The stove had a built in surge protector, which obviously did not work. Happy with our induction heating stove.
 
I am an electrician and based on the information I have read there are two possibilities I see.
First, the dryer may be faulty or the cord is wired wrong (unless it was a factory installed cord.
Second, there could be a neutral line problem or one of the phases (or hot wires) has a problem like a loose connection somewhere at the panel. Or the ground for the panel is not connected properly at the ground rod or cold water bond.
Depending how mechanically inclined you are, we could video call or FaceTime and I could walk you through the troubleshooting process. A voltmeter or proximity sensor (test pen) to check for power at the outlet would be helpful.
If you turned off the breaker you could check the tightness of the screws that hold the wires in the outlet. If you have a solid connection and power is working, I would say the dryer is bad.
You mentioned resetting the plug. Is there a button on it. Also the new dryer worked at some point? But not now?
A pen like this will tell you if power is going into the dryer by turning the one on and putting it near or against the cord going to the dryer. A meter you could stick the test leads into the outlet holes to see if you have proper voltage readings phase to phase and phase to neutral.
IMG_3717.webp
 

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