Outlet is 220 volts could be double fused.
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Whitewater Woman's Equipment Maintenance and Repair
- Thread starter WhitewaterWoman
- Start date
Not that I can easily find. There is something around here somewhere.
Yes.
There is a start button and I do press it.
Pressing the door sensor in and release does not affect anything.
The lint filter is clean and properly seated.
I’ve checked all of the above, plus the breaker and the plug many times.
If that means there are two breaker switches locked together, the answer is yes, they are fused.
This makes me think there could be a problem with the wiring in the plug.Or the socket the plug is plugged into. If it started working after you reset the plug. But I don't know, it's difficult to tell. Maybe you could post a picture of the plug?
A quick and easy test it to plug it in somewhere else and see if it still has a problem.
I haven't seen a clothes drier since I lived in Melbourne 30 years ago.
[Edit] Now that I've seen the pictures, the way the plug fitting is recessed in to the wall and the shape of the plug on the drier look like they'd both cause each other problems. Do you have an old fashioned double adapter you could shove in there? - Do not use a powerboard to run a drier, very few of them can handle that much current and can be a fire hazard.
I haven't seen a clothes drier since I lived in Melbourne 30 years ago.
[Edit] Now that I've seen the pictures, the way the plug fitting is recessed in to the wall and the shape of the plug on the drier look like they'd both cause each other problems. Do you have an old fashioned double adapter you could shove in there? - Do not use a powerboard to run a drier, very few of them can handle that much current and can be a fire hazard.
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That's a good idea, maybe use an extention cord from another outlet.
I don't like the look of that outlet, there could be something wrong there.
Techno-deficient here but isn't there something like a voltage meter that can be used to test the outlet? Y'all ignore me if I'm way off base.
That is a 30 ampere 220V nominal receptacle/plug
Black to red should read a nominal 240 volts of alternating current in the socket.
If you place the leads on a multimeter from either of the "hot" legs to the neutral leg, you will see a nominal 120 volts AC.
USA residential power is only delivered by two legs on the service entrance at a nominal voltage of 120 volts @ 60 hertz.
To gain the nominal 240 volts, you have to connect the two 120 volt legs to get it.
I would highly recommend that you get someone who is experienced in electrical work check it out if you are unsure of yourself and have said meter.
Black to red should read a nominal 240 volts of alternating current in the socket.
If you place the leads on a multimeter from either of the "hot" legs to the neutral leg, you will see a nominal 120 volts AC.
USA residential power is only delivered by two legs on the service entrance at a nominal voltage of 120 volts @ 60 hertz.
To gain the nominal 240 volts, you have to connect the two 120 volt legs to get it.
I would highly recommend that you get someone who is experienced in electrical work check it out if you are unsure of yourself and have said meter.
I agree that any real work on electricity needs to be done by a professional. I'm just trying to find out if the outlet is the problem, or if it is the electric stuff in the dryer. But that may be beyond me too.
You have found a good photo of the receptacle in question. Apparently this is an "old" receptacle, made for three pronged plugs. Now they are made for four pronged plugs, so I have learned something.
I don't have a voltmeter or other item to do this the way it is supposed to be done. Or at least I don't know where one is. I know I have seen such a thing around here, but all the tools, etc., are such a mess and I don't know if he took it with him or if it is huddled among what was left behind.
There is such a thing and I don't have one. At least that I can find.
I do have to go into the "big" nearby city, (read small city) on Monday and I can get one then.
The dryer receptacle is unique. Nothing else fits in it, except a a dryer cord. At least that I am aware of.
Mine fits a welder also both 120 volt imputs should be out of phase to each other may be the outlet was not wired properly. I'm no electrician, however know phase matters, for a 220 outlet. A lot of these things are the result of home hackers, not using a electrician.
I agree with you. Much of this work was done by someone other than an electrician.
However, the outlet has been working fine for 14 years, so I am thinking, why would it quit right now?
Wear end tear. I replaced two outlets recently that was just worn on the inside from plugging and unplugging over and over again. Maybe that's the problem with yours too, 14 years of wear and tear. If the electricity comes and goes, so one moment the dryer is working and then suddenly there's no elecitricity, it sounds like something could be worn or loose.
The installation also looks a little rough, like someone was in a hurry and just jammed the outlet in there.
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If the guy that wired it did not know to tap both wires on on the two separate phases it will short out the fuse.
I have seen two types of fuse boxes. one tap from top one tap from bottom, or a zig zag bar in box.
I'm still curious about the plug and the wall socket. Is the plug able to be pushed in all the way or is the wood surrounding the socket preventing it from going all the way in?
I did a bit of a search and you can get extension boxes for just your type of situation, to make the socket stick further out so that you don't have problems with plugs like the one on your new drier.
https://empower.abb.com/ecatalog/ec/EN_NA/p/BC73151-K
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That surprised me, I just always imagined you had 110 volt driers.
Here all our power is 240 volt, Brown for positive, Blue for negative, and Green with a yellow stripe for ground/earth.
In this instance, please heed this advice:
Use of a volt/ohm multimeter is easy enough. So is electrocuting yourself having touched their positive and negative leads in the wrong place.
Use of a volt/ohm multimeter is easy enough. So is electrocuting yourself having touched their positive and negative leads in the wrong place.
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I wish I could send my husband to your house. He's got tons of tools and loves "fixing" things. I could use the peace and quiet for a while here, too.
Seriously, this is such a great forum with knowledgeable, helpful members who know how to fix things, too.
Yes, the plug is able to be pushed all the way in. Always has been. I have double and triple checked,
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